It’s the 1980s. The Fumé grape, as it’s called locally, and known to the world as the Sauvignon Blanc, settles in and spreads out over the Saint Andelain hill overlooking the Nohain river as it flows towards the Loire. Thanks to Quentin David, the father, Pouilly treats itself and adds Château Favray – a new vineyard, and a new winemaker.
In 2017, his son Augustinlaunches at a gallop, clearing obstacles at the same rate as his stable of young mares, and joined the winery – kickstarting a new era in Pouilly-Fumé.
The Favray History
Traces of human origin and history have been preserved at Favray. The geology of the area reveals that millions of years ago, the region was covered by a warm sea, leaving behind fossils of shells and corals that can still be observed while walking through the vineyards. Various artefacts such as shaped stones, pottery, old coins, and even a sword discovered at the source bear witness to human activities throughout history. It is possible that this valley was inhabited by cavemen, Gallic and Romans who possibly had a camp in this area. The three buildings located in Favray’s lieu-dit offer insight into how the region was inhabited and utilized over the centuries. A manor house from the sixteenth century, a farm from the seventeenth century, and a bourgeois house at the top of the hill from the eighteenth century are the structures that stand as proof of this history.
Favray
An old wine press from the eighteenth century has been found in one of the buildings overlooking the hills, suggesting that Chateau Favray was a wine estate by that time. Unfortunately, during the nineteenth century, the phylloxera destroyed almost all of France’s vineyards and Favray’s vine was not spared by this pest… In 1936, the winery was bequeathed to the hospice of Cosne-sur-Loire. Lands were exploited but the old houses charged with history were abandoned.
Petit Favray
The Manor’s house of Favray was a seignorial place which collected taxes for the passage through the swamp. This dwelling was Françoise Reugny De La Rivière’s house, also called “la dame de Favray”, the lady-in-waiting of Marguerite de France – the famous Queen Margot – the wife of Henri IV.
Grand Favray
At the end of an 800-meter path bordered by walnut trees and fields, the Favray farm appears, built just beside the source. It is a beautiful farmhouse typical of the region, with old stables and a beautiful bread oven.
The David Family
If Étienne, the son of a Parisian entrepreneur specializing in car leather, and the daughter of an exotic wood merchant in Faubourg Saint-Antoine had not both decided to dedicate themselves to agriculture during World War II, the David Family would not have become associated with Chateau Favray.
After studying agricultural engineering, Étienne began his career in agricultural development, with the goal of helping to feed Europeans who had experienced food shortages during the war. He met Marguerite David, who had a passion for history and art and had spent part of her childhood in the countryside. Together, they searched for a farm to manage, and Marguerite was drawn to the beauty of Favray’s valley, hill, and views.
They purchased the entire estate at a candle auction in 1957 and began restoring it immediately. The winery’s revival began in earnest in the early 1980s, when Quentin, their second child, decided to become involved in Favray. In 1981, they planted the first vines in a bold attempt to awaken the dormant terroirs of Favray.
Quentin and Augustin David
Quentin, who was born in Paris in 1957, always had a preference for the countryside rather than the city since he was young. He had to wait until the weekends to enjoy the countryside. After completing his baccalaureate, he pursued agricultural engineering in Angers with a desire to settle in Favray eventually.
Quentin spent 18 months in Ivory Coast for a cooperation mission during his military service. Upon his return, he decided to rebuild Favray’s winery, even though it had disappeared more than a century ago. With the help of his parents, they planted the first vines on the top of the hill and built the cellar in 1984.
When the first cuvée was produced, the people of Pouilly showed a lot of curiosity about this young Parisian who was about to produce his first vine in the Nohain Valley, which is located in the northeast of the appellation of origin. The first cuvée sold quickly and was awarded medals at agricultural shows, indicating a promising start. Over time, Favray’s lands were replanted with grapevines, hectare by hectare.
Augustin, his son, joined him in 2017.
Augustin had a privileged childhood in Favray where he enjoyed exploring the countryside throughout the year. He attended the agricultural engineering school of Angers, but his interests soon turned towards the Southern Mediterranean and Oriental countries.
At 21, he took a year off to travel the Mediterranean during the Arab Spring. After working in Paris for a year, he went to Morocco to work in the oil industry, where he lived with his fiancé Sophie in Casablanca for two years. They got engaged in Marrakech and returned to France with new aspirations: Sophie aimed to establish a high-end brand of saddlery and leather goods, while Augustin aimed to succeed his father in running the winery.
The Favray Terroir
The winery is surrounded by vast stretches of land that comprise of vineyards, woods, fields, and meadows. It is situated in a location that is not crossed by any road. A small river runs parallel to the hillside while a spring, which is purified by limestone, bubbles with crystal clear water. The hill is strategically positioned, providing a magnificent view of the valley and the surrounding areas from sunrise to sunset. The presence of old river caves can be seen, which are believed to have been formed by ancient rivers in the clay. Interestingly, fossils indicating the existence of a coral reef in the area can be found. All of these elements showcase the richness and uniqueness of the terroir.
The higher part of the hill is overseen by the Villiers limestone, while the western part of the valley is covered in this same limestone soil, which is made up of small, flat stones known as “caillottes”. In contrast, the Tonnerre limestone is located in the middle of the hill and extends down the east side of the hill, while the fossil coral reef winds around the hill, creating two distinct geological horizons.
The nearby river provides moisture and coolness to the hillside, creating a microclimate that, coupled with the chalky nature of the limestone soil, results in a delayed ripening of the vines. This coolness is beneficial in light of the current climate change trend towards hotter and drier weather conditions.
To prevent the vines from freezing during the spring, a powerful anti-frost system is employed that harnesses the energy generated by water turning into ice to maintain the buds at a temperature above -2°C.
A “terroir wine” is one that is influenced more by the location and soil where the grapes are grown than the grape variety or winemaking techniques. While the winemaker must use agronomic practices such as pruning to guide the growth of the grapevine and produce high-quality grapes, they also aim to strike a balance between controlling the plant and allowing it to express its natural characteristics.
Achieving this balance is challenging and requires careful attention to each vine, respecting its unique characteristics and sap flow. To reduce yield and improve berry quality, each vine is pruned carefully. Additionally, the soil is ploughed to create balanced competition among grass cover in each plot, and the vines are manually tended throughout the vegetative period to ensure optimal aeration and sunlight exposure. To preserve this delicate balance, the winemaker takes care to prevent pests and diseases. During harvest, the grapes from each plot are separated to continue the work initiated in the vineyard.
Chateau Favray Pouilly Fumé
The primary blend of Chateau Favray combines all the plots of the named vineyard. The Sauvignon grape is particularly susceptible to changes in soil composition, but in Favray, it exhibits a pleasing tension and freshness, with hints of white flowers and citrus fruit.
A wine with a youthful, vibrant and dynamic character. Its bright citrus, gooseberry, peach and floral flavours are abundant and precise, showcasing elegance. The wine is full-bodied and smooth on the palate, balanced by the freshness of the minerals and the distinct attributes of Chateau Favray’s terroir. The palate highlights an expressive fruitiness with a marked minerality, resulting in a perfect balance. Typically, it is served young, but with ageing, this blend achieves an ideal equilibrium between complexity and freshness.
