Pittnauer – Behind the Label

There is a simple and honest feeling in the wine and spirit of Gerhard Pittnauer, which hails from his generosity and humility. Named Falstaff Vintner of the Year in 2014, Gerhard Pittnauer and his wife Brigitte produce honest wines of great character and quality.

Read on as we explore their story behind the label…

Gerhard Pittnauer found himself thrust into the world of winemaking during a challenging period in the 1980s. Faced with the unexpected death of his father, the teenager was unprepared to take over the family vineyard, especially amidst the difficulties Austrian wine was experiencing due to the ‘anti-freeze scandal.’ This scandal had tarnished the reputation of Austrian wine, involving illicit additives to enhance sweetness and body.

In response to these challenges, Gerhard demonstrated remarkable resilience. Determined to forge his own path, he conducted early research revealing the exceptional quality of the land and the unique grape varieties grown in the family vineyard. Setting a personal goal to produce wines according to methods he admired, Gerhard embraced the biodynamic approach he had encountered in France.

The outcome is what Gerhard and his wife Brigitte refer to as ‘living wines.’ They currently manage approximately 17 hectares of land, half of which they own, and the remaining half is rented. Their vineyards are located in Gols near Lake Neusiedl in Burgenland, situated on the Austrian-Hungarian border, known for its abundant sunshine. This favourable climate allows Gerhard to craft wines with gentle tannins that contribute to a well-rounded finish.

Their winemaking process is entirely manual, with timing determined by appropriateness rather than rigid adherence to the calendar. While some of their equipment is modern, the Pittnauers welcome evolution in their work, but their primary focus remains steadfastly on creating the wines they desire rather than following trends.

This commitment involves cultivating Austrian grape varieties like Zweigelt and Blaufrankisch, along with more common ones such as Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Chardonnay. Approximately half of their production is dedicated to whites, crafted using steel tanks, while the other half consists of reds produced in wooden barrels.

It was clear to the two at an early stage that this story would only work in interaction with the surrounding nature. So, when they switched to organic and, a little later, to biodynamic farming and transformed their vineyards into lush and vital biotopes. These speak their own language – depending on exposure, grape variety and subsoil – which is why each is thought of and interpreted individually. In order to capture the subtle and quiet voices of their terroir with pinpoint accuracy, the two do in the cellar exactly what good winemakers do – and that is a lot and a little at the same time.

On the one hand, they add nothing to the wines except a little SO2, and even that is not always, and take nothing away from them. They ferment spontaneously but do not clarify or filter. On the other hand, they make a multitude of decisions every year: about the right harvest time and the length of skin contact, the fermentation and ageing barrels, the time on the lees, the final assemblage or the ageing time, to name just a few. This results in wines that, never identical, deliberately focus on differences that combine depth and finesse, are light on their feet and pleasingly low in alcohol, yet bursting with energy, substance and liveliness.

Everything about the winery says cool – from the extensive collection of vinyl records that the pair keeps at the winery, stories of Gerard’s musical prowess, and a laid-back air that suggests that he’s on top of his game. Even his wine labels, which were designed by eastern German artist Tobias Hermeling, exude a laid-back vibe. 

Not surprisingly, his wines mirror his energy, but with excited experimental energy to get the best out of what they have. They are students presenting the current findings, and so far, it has been delicious research!