Domaine d’Aupilhac – The Ancient Volcanic Amphitheatre of Languedoc

Domaine d’Aupilhac

France | Languedoc

Three generations of Fadats have farmed the large, 18 hectare lieu-dit (geographical area) known as Domaine d’Aupilhac, in the village of Montpeyroux, across the river Hérault from Daumas Gassac and Grange des Pères. While the Fadats have farmed this land since the nineteenth century, and the vineyards date even further back to the time of the Romans, it was not until 1989 that Sylvain Fadat, finally registered the Domaine as an independent vigneron.

Domaine d’Aupilhac is special for many reasons. Nestled below the ruins of the village’s Château, these terraced vineyards of limestone scree and marl enjoy perfect southwest sun exposure, giving dense, chewy wines loaded with Mediterranean soul. Sylvain is not one to shy away from hard work. In an ancient volcanic amphitheatre littered with marine fossils and big chunks of limestone, he has done what few vignerons dare to do nowadays: he spent years clearing the land of boulders and shrubbery before finally planting a vineyard.

Sylvain Fadat – Languedoc’s Very Own History Maker

Sylvain Fadat (right) is one of the winemaking stars in the south of France. He founded Domaine d’Aupilhac long before the quality revolution that is now taking place in Languedoc. While his family has farmed these limestone scree terraces since the 19th century, and the vineyards date back to Roman times, the Domaine was not registered as a vigneron indépendent until Sylvain took over in 1989. He realized that the vineyards around his village had great potential due to a unique microclimate.

Today, his eighteen-hectare lieu-dit of Aupilhac is still making some of the most compelling and age-worthy wines in the south of France. Through his extraordinary work in the vineyards, Sylvain Fadat is also awarded La Revue du vin de France’s the Vintner of the Year (2021).

He has also elected to have his fruit certified as organic after a mandatory three-year conversion process. For him, this is a choice both of conscience and pragmatism. He works the soil vigorously by ploughing regularly. This forces the roots to dig deeper in the soil in search of cooler, humid subsoil, which protects the vines from drought and sun.

Ultimately, his rationale centres on helping achieve a natural balance. In his words, “We believe that work in the vineyards has far more influence on a wine’s quality than what we do in the cellar.” What happens in the cellars is equally compelling.

The Terroir of Domaine d’Aupilhac

The estate is comprised of two, distinct terroirs: the south-west facing terraces in Aupilhac and Cocalières, which is recently replanted higher up and north-facing. 

The Aupilhac plot produces some of the most compelling and age-worthy wines in the south of France. Across the river Hérault from Grange des Pères and Daumas Gassac, his Aupilhac parcel is special for a number of reasons — first the high altitude of 350 metres above sea level, being planted on terraces with southwest exposure for both a long hang time and optimal ripeness. Secondly, the soils are rich in prehistoric oyster fossils, giving intensely mineral wines with incredible length. Sylvain mainly cultivates Mourvèdre and Carignan, as well as a smattering of Grenache and Cinsault here.

Sylvain’s life achievement is his creation of Les Cocalières, a vineyard above the village in a volcanic amphitheatre that he built over years clearing boulders with the use of dynamite. Today, this magical site is loaded with marine fossils and big chunks of limestone. In creating Cocalières, Sylvain followed the founders of France’s great terroirs such as Savennières and Cornas, planting vines into pure rock for the most promising parcels irrespective of time and money. Due to the high altitude of this micro-region, it’s Syrah that dominates, with the addition of Mourvèdre and Grenache vines. The northern-most area of the vineyard is used to grow four white varietals: Roussanne, Marsanne, Grenache Blanc, and Vermentino.

The domain practices organic and biodynamic agriculture. Sylvain works on the basis that what happens in the vineyard (ploughing, green harvests, organic methods) has more influence on the final result than the vinification. So you can imagine the care that goes into tending these vines. In the winery, maturation techniques depend on the cuvée and the precise provenance of the grapes.

The Wines of Domaine d’Aupilhac

Helped by his wife Désirée, Sylvain is proud to offer a range of rich, flavourful, and well-balanced wines that age with ease. With an emphasis on the fruit and an oaky nuance in the mix, these cuvées are real gems. Sylvain and Désirée are great ambassadors for the traditional heritage of the Languedoc, whilst also seeking out potential in new terroirs.

Here are some of our favourites:

AOC Languedoc Cuvee Les Cocalieres Blanc 2020

AOC Languedoc Cuvee Lou Maset Rose 2020

AOC Languedoc Montpeyroux Cuvee La Boda Rouge 2018